tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post1485534235420669095..comments2023-10-14T04:05:08.546-07:00Comments on Diary of a Technocratic Anarchist: Wondering what the fuss is aboutForrest Higgshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-9038793773531941802010-09-15T12:25:37.047-07:002010-09-15T12:25:37.047-07:00For attaching the elastic, you could tie a knot in...For attaching the elastic, you could tie a knot in the end of it and then slip it though a key hole shaped opening left in the plastic and your done. Or alternatively you could leave a U shaped hole and hook the end of the elastic over the tang in the middle of the U.Sublimehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17981768588609934835noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-54120348483458277382010-09-09T19:09:29.237-07:002010-09-09T19:09:29.237-07:00Guy: I believe nophead did some work with that se...Guy: I believe nophead did some work with that several years ago.Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-32088610437701980472010-09-09T18:40:05.549-07:002010-09-09T18:40:05.549-07:00just out of curiosity, has anyone tried printing a...just out of curiosity, has anyone tried printing a thin walled shell and then using a syringe to fill it with a hardening resin and catalyst? Or concrete for that matter...Guyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12623342498696677919noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-53909017592272468732010-09-09T05:36:30.174-07:002010-09-09T05:36:30.174-07:00I'm not the guy to ask that question. I think...I'm not the guy to ask that question. I think it's good to do 3D printing. Exactly which machine you use is largely a matter of taste to me.<br /><br />Makerbot and Rapman {which I use} you can buy as complete kits. With Reprap Mendel you can either buy it as a kit from several sources or build it from scratch yourself. It's a few hundred dollars cheaper to build it from scratch.<br /><br />I'm convinced that my Rapman with the special 0.3 mm extruder orifice that I use gives higher quality prints than other systems. I haven't had my system side-by-side with either a Makerbot or a Mendel, so that assessment is very subjective, however, and is based only on comparing pictures published on the web.Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-1377180776017846242010-09-08T21:44:57.687-07:002010-09-08T21:44:57.687-07:00A quick question...
what are the pros of the Repr...A quick question...<br /><br />what are the pros of the Reprap over the Makerbot? <br /><br />I'm new to the whole 3D printing thing, and want to dive in with the right machine...<br /><br />thanks for your insights!<br /><br />DaveUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00980262910462412015noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-58789900418715184882010-09-07T05:46:47.502-07:002010-09-07T05:46:47.502-07:00kliment: Nice idea! I think I may try that. :-)...kliment: Nice idea! I think I may try that. :-)Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-61035256270268396512010-09-07T03:36:05.062-07:002010-09-07T03:36:05.062-07:00Forrest, for attaching elastic bands, start with a...Forrest, for attaching elastic bands, start with a loop (rubber band), and have a plastic part with a circular protrusion and another plastic part with a matching citcular hole. Put the band on the protrusion, glue/weld the plastic bits together, thread it through whatever you need it to go through and repeat on the other end.Klimenthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11226438404047983726noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-15754234461552585112010-09-06T19:18:50.233-07:002010-09-06T19:18:50.233-07:00Frank: With AoI I never try to make hollow object...Frank: With AoI I never try to make hollow objects. I just leave them solid and then don't put infill in in Slice and Dice. Nothing to it. :-)Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-23737222317911904092010-09-06T19:15:13.021-07:002010-09-06T19:15:13.021-07:00I use Art Of Illusion, and one reason that my thin...I use Art Of Illusion, and one reason that my things look blocky is that it is difficult to subtract out the centers leaving the walls. Of course this is letting the tool influence the design, just what Forrest was talking about. Maybe I need to learn enough about AOI scripts to make one that will turn a solid shape into a shell. I suspect that to really take advantage of the thin wall method, you would need some insight into what stresses the part would take so that you could add reinforcing struts (kind of like bone).<br /><br />fdaviesFrank Davieshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04747344502765745130noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-6611208272434238712010-09-06T18:52:49.018-07:002010-09-06T18:52:49.018-07:00I'd been thinking about the wedge option. I&#...I'd been thinking about the wedge option. I'd have to use more of a diamond than a wedge to get it to print right, though. That's pretty hard to do with parts that small. :-(Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-44604693980882198092010-09-06T18:39:59.272-07:002010-09-06T18:39:59.272-07:00Hey Forrest:
TO answer your question/statement re...Hey Forrest:<br /><br />TO answer your question/statement regarding how to attach elastic to plastic without screws.... use a wedge or a knot. eg: print a plastic wedge that fits loosely into a similarly shaped hollow/slot/cavity, then put the elastic through the cavity so it exits at the thin end of the wedge, and inset the wedge in-set. stretch the elastic well beyond it's normal operating limits, and push the wedge in hard. it'll never move again. ( the elastic holds the wedge in compression, and the wedge holds the tension from the elastic).<br /><br />similar results can be achieved with knots - either through-hole and knotted onto itself, or knotted around a solid object like a rod or cleat.<br /><br />Buzz.Buzzhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17866457037955293268noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-21527735524539647512010-09-06T14:32:39.264-07:002010-09-06T14:32:39.264-07:00"it's only natural you should be the lead..."it's only natural you should be the leader of this revolution!"<br /><br />No I shouldn't. I've got an ongoing project in which I am using the thin walled, no infill philosophy.<br /><br />As always, people can do what they will in Reprap. I'm merely suggesting the thin walled approach as an alternative to the several ways things are being done now.Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-7672943308249946162010-09-06T14:21:40.588-07:002010-09-06T14:21:40.588-07:00Very valid points. Infill is probably unnecessary ...Very valid points. Infill is probably unnecessary and can even cause problems in the integrity of the final part. If it's easier to make thin-walled parts from just about any RepRap setup, rather than fine-tuning and tweaking a system for optimal every-part production, it's only natural that this new design paradigm be fully considered and perhaps even adopted as standard practice.<br /><br />The next step is for you to lead that revolution, Mr. Higgs. Although I'm no expert and I have no RepRap, I feel this is an important avenue to be explored, and if new RepRap Mendel or Huxley parts can be produced as thin-walled variants, then it's only natural you should be the leader of this revolution!<br /><br />Although my opinion means little, I push you to develop thin-walled RepRap parts!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06779648966034609633noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-83897726422871325262010-09-06T14:01:38.052-07:002010-09-06T14:01:38.052-07:00What do you think I'm doing? :-)What do you think I'm doing? :-)Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-32105895255407063932010-09-06T13:52:57.393-07:002010-09-06T13:52:57.393-07:00Different people build for different reasons. Ther...Different people build for different reasons. There will always, ALWAYS, be a section of people who want to keep it clean and simple (I am one of these). However, there will always be those who push things a bit. They'll add complexity to extend boundaries and features... But they'll need folks like you to re-simplify things to make them practical again. It's a cycle. Do not fight it or try to change it... Acknowledge your role in the cycle and continue on your path.Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05202173974476931785noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-32966870040644355642010-09-06T12:59:36.429-07:002010-09-06T12:59:36.429-07:00Make no mistake. No infill, thin wall parts are v...Make no mistake. No infill, thin wall parts are very strong if thoughtfully designed.Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-68075903103138073802010-09-06T12:24:59.584-07:002010-09-06T12:24:59.584-07:00For a machine tool, stiffness is a critically impo...For a machine tool, stiffness is a critically important factor. So if I were printing RepRap parts, I would certainly aim for a high percentage of infill.<br /><br />For printed parts that aren't meant to be used in a RepRap though, low infill/thin wall is certainly a good option.jbaylesshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02402438002648581104noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-62169078365006934422010-09-06T11:20:44.434-07:002010-09-06T11:20:44.434-07:00Fair point, but for me the first time I decided th...Fair point, but for me the first time I decided that I needed a heated bed was not because I experienced warp, but because I had trouble getting the ABS to adhere during the print. The initial layers stuck, but then the print would break off half way through. The obvious solution for that is to use a raft, but then the finish on the bottom of the print is not so good.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17207320619551063718noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-65988767836070174382010-09-06T11:03:26.765-07:002010-09-06T11:03:26.765-07:00That hand looks very impressive.That hand looks very impressive.Glowing Face Manhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07717328290680086281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-837478590774305512010-09-06T10:06:46.830-07:002010-09-06T10:06:46.830-07:00My point, exactly! We spend far too much time red...My point, exactly! We spend far too much time redesigning our 3D printer and far too little time designing our parts. :-)Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23681518.post-13608306297773184722010-09-06T09:37:53.667-07:002010-09-06T09:37:53.667-07:00I've also been wondering that - many of the re...I've also been wondering that - many of the reprap parts are fairly 'blocky' and look like they've been CNC'd from a solid block. I assumed that it was to make them easier to bootstrap by other means, like by using CNC or other subtractive methods. That doesn't mean we can't have a set of reprap only parts, though.<br /><br />As far as most parts go, all you need is a collar or tube around the bolt shanks and webs in between to connect. The centre of the parts can be hollow. It would be an interesting excercise to see how little material you need?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10046079586632841601noreply@blogger.com